Friday I get home from a week of "work" and I go to see Black Swan with Laurie.
Great movie and we like it. I know that (today) Saturday is going to be a great surf swell but I failed to scope the tide scene . I sleep in ( 0700 ) and get up to check the cameras tide charts etc. I thought the weather wouldn't be "off shore" quite yet.
I see that the high tide is a wave killing 6 foot at 10am. However it is lined up, glassy, and off shore with some size and shape.
I MISSED IT !
I sit here looking at the Swamis, Ponto,and Tamarack cameras as I type wishing I would have gone out like every other Saturday at dawn patrol...but
I missed it..

I am hoping that the receding tide this afternoon, off shores, and increasing swell will provide what I want, I think so.
Laurie lays some words of wisdom on me and says enjoy the laziness and the fact that you slept in.
She is of course right..
and in the grand scheme of things there will be more chances available.
So Last Sunday night Dave and I were out and I had a pretty good evening of waves and sunset.



Thursday after work I meet Jason at Terramar for an after work grab at the remains of the last bigger swell and we get a couple of good ones each...good to surf with the boy.


We will see what this afternoon and tomorrow bring
ahhh hope
surf on

Sat Am. It's what we like !

Finally, she shows up.
Got a few nice glassy ones this morning.
Everyone else did too !

Look forward to some great surf on the way as well.
Enjoy !

Surf on

That's more like it

Terramar is a beautiful place

I have now 2 whole days in a row of surfing.
Seems like a month or more since that has happened.
hope to continue with at least 4 total sessions this week.
Got a few today at 0715
A few got me today at 0730

Had a good time all in all, as expected.
Chuck got a few too


surf on

Surfing is making me wanna . . .

surf more.

Today at Terramar, I was cold.
I got in @ 0645 with the reef going off a little and about 10 people there.
I choose to not go there.
Because of a lack of getting in the water over the last month, I have gone out of being in any surfing condition at all. I was actually relieved when I saw there wasn't line after line to have to paddle through to get outside.
So I ( of course ) fall off my first good drop.... Nice !
I do get other opportunities to drop a few and ride.
A few sets came.
I realized how important surfing is is to my well being.
Nice, cold winter morning really.
So glad to get in and get a few at all.
surf on