surf more.
Today at Terramar, I was cold.
I got in @ 0645 with the reef going off a little and about 10 people there.
I choose to not go there.
Because of a lack of getting in the water over the last month, I have gone out of being in any surfing condition at all. I was actually relieved when I saw there wasn't line after line to have to paddle through to get outside.
So I ( of course ) fall off my first good drop.... Nice !
I do get other opportunities to drop a few and ride.
A few sets came.
I realized how important surfing is is to my well being.
Nice, cold winter morning really.
So glad to get in and get a few at all.
surf on
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