Finding my stoke again is hard.
Forces are working against me.
I will find it though.
Got a call from Pat and Dave, my surf buds.
Perfect weather
Perfect glass @ 5PM
Not too crowded
Hot.
Waves.
So very trunkable ! ! !
so many body issues holding me down
I will find it again....just as before...., just not this perfect day.
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2 comments:
I hope you can get over the physical challenges so that you can get after it again.
Rock on,
Christian
Bill,
I missed seeing you this past fri, sat, and sun. Saturday was very good at the reef. we were on it before dawn. I caught my 1st 2 waves before 6:30 am. My leash string broke on the second wave. Had to swim in but thank goodness Squat (Jim) had an extra leash plug string. Hope to see you out there soon.
Terry
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