What I liked about today is

that it was all un-expected.
Yesterday, after work I only had 1 hour of light left to pack the truck up and get to the water and surf...and I choose not to do it.
Last night I saw a picture of a wave from that evening @ Terramar and I wished I could have gone.
In anticipation of a good morning surf if rain,wind, and tide didn't muck it up, I got up @ at 0500 and headed out towards the beach through the pouring rain, and thought to myself that it wouldn't be worth it and turned around and went swimming at the gym instead.
Saw the cam at noon and there were head high glassy lines breaking soft.
Planned the tide turn around and went out with Dave.
Started raining hard.
Got in and had a great time.
4-5 good rights at the palms with glassy shoulder high fat ones.
I expected another hard paddle out but it wasn't a problem.
I expected difficulty getting into these waves, but I brought the right board and it was GOOD.
Stoked
and
thankful.

surf on

I've been there before....

Having to look in the Mirror

Today @ 730AM nobody was out .
@ 8AM I went out

never made it outside...

Simply didn't have the strength,wellness, and will to make it through 4 steps of white water waves to get to the breaking faces. tried 2 times...once at the reef with someone and once at Ted's house. Both were un sucessfull attempts. I will not offer a single excuse although many come to mind LoL.

Point is

I have been here before

I'm stoked for trying
and
I know what must be done.

Got......

only one really decent wave last night,

however it was still good for me. Stood maybe 10 times in weak close to shore knee high stuff, then got an outside wave and made a couple nice turns with the big board and rode it in....
Warm TRUNKED it
nice and glassy
nobody out there really

stoked