Got there at 0630
Stood there until 0900
Watching
macking walled close-outs with occasional 10ft faces
kept me and my buddies outta the water.
Then it subsided, then I left.
LUCKILY there is(are) more on the way and a chance for
Sunday's Surfer Psych-Out Redemption Session
coming to break near you ( and me ) or us.
SURF (as in you have to go in) ON !
4 comments:
First - Thanks for the Terramar surfing blog ... I moved to Carlsbad from Okinawa about a year ago, and this is certainly my favorite wave ...
I got there about 0830 on Sunday and raced down to the water ... was surprised at all of the people standing on the cliff watching it ... paddled out in front of the empty lot and laughed my @$$ off as I caught set after set wondering why so many people were still standing on the cliff ... That right was so good and much easier than it looked from above ... saw a guy taking photos, and saw him again this morning ... He said that his site is gphotousa.com though I can't remember what he said now ... Any ideas? Aloha ~ Joe
Dude was that you on the blue board
rocking that freakin right ? ! ?
Yeah ... That was me. Haha ... makes me feel good to hear somebody saw it :)
Just read your post about Thursday ... I surfed it that morning at sunup ... wow. The reef was really going off that day. Glad to hear that it was still firing in the afternoon.
Surfed "The Stack" on Saturday dawn patrol. Had fun, quick left and rights before the closeouts. Felt good to be back on the board.
Mike
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