# 27 SUNDAY A-OK

Now that was really fun !
In at 6am with super glass. The reef was showing some sets that looked chest high or better.
Fellow Dawn Patroler Mike headed there immediately. I choose to stay behind and see if I could pick off waist high peaks with knee high shoulders.

This worked for me today AND I really needed that.
In that first half hour in solitude I had many mellow glides to the right .

I am beginning to really like this type of wave. Especially the solitude and not having to
 wait and choose, it is nicer to pick and choose.
Some others came out and I enjoyed their company from a distance and we all caught some.
I got out of my wetsuit and into my trunks for some more sensuous fun
And Then... AND THEN.... AND THEN......!
A couple of really nice chest high and better sets came all the way over from the reef and through the houses spot where we were.
Nice glassy chest highs....
super sweet...
perfect finish to a super Sunday morning surf !

THANK YOU ! !

Saturday 4/20/13 #26 tHAt wIND SwELL is LIke

Wind swell is most certainly not my cup of tea.
Went to the reef with a friend and, well, I got 1 decent ride,
a right and the rest was an exercise in ...well lets just call it 

weird shit

Fun yes.... weird definitely
surfing IS GREAT that way
always different

weird on

Wed, Sat Sun...#23,24,25

Wednesday April 10th. #23
Glass-ish, TRUNKS, clear skies, no wind
 After a very rough day at work and with the "after work" forces working again' me, I do make it out to my first mid week surf with my son this yea.r
Wind swell and a semi difficult paddle out at 545 pm make it an OK surf.
Well frankly, I must say it was
GREAT
How it "washes away all that is bad", still works(?), WHY ? I dunno and  I dont care to know.
I just know it does, and that is that.

THANK YOU ! 

So we have a good time. My son lost his job of 2 years while on the cusp of getting a new dream job

He did not get the dream job.

He has taken back his athletic self however by loosing 28 pounds and running.

I have faith .

Good to see him catch a few in the water again that Wednesday

  Saturday #24 and Sunday #25 were so similar.

Difficult- for- me- to- catch -wind -swell ,and I go away feeling, "good" about a quality ride or two.

Good stuff but always wishing for some better rides.

I am deliberately exiting the back side of waves....at least on these two days I gave it a shot.

Trunks on Saturday

Wetsuit on Sunday ....bah  wetsuits

 

 

 

Sunday #23 Frustration and then.....

After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get

MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold in the air to trunk it at 615am
I go out looking at larger waves, but catch practically none, as my D.P. friends each get  one or two.
Again too much water for the swell.
So
After 30 min of that I decide to surf my own game and move north.
I finally spot an outsider and point my finger up to indicate that I have seen this to the others so they may prepare. I knew this one was coming north of them and I knew this one was mine.
Jacked and peaked right behind me and I dropped a nice steep left. Had a good ride and was super stoked right there and then.
Sometimes one is all I need
Sometimes I need one
Was perfection really.
surf on...

The Birthday Sessions #21-#22

So I ask for a day off the day before my b-day  Friday 4/5/13

#21

57   wow where did it go and how did it happen soooooo fast?
The forecast was for good stuff 3-6 spread over the days.
Friday was a very high tide at the Dawn patrol .

I have a hard time NOT doing the dawn patrol.
I just love going out first, or close to it .
So   Friday got a few, tidy and hard to get into

Saturday #22

 Saturday was Good too

Trunks and same kind of conditions. Love it though not the wave fest of last weekend .

Funny how waves can be 4 times the size but harder to get into ...such is surfing.