Swami's Surfing on Summer Solstice

Sweet ! 

First day of Summer !

I always request this day off

Bingo 

Got in a double surf on my favorite day, in perfect weather!
#45

Swami's swell conditions weren't sooo great, but

I did get to surf with my favorite surf buddy,Jason !

Laurie came too and we had a great beach day in the warm waters and sun.

Got some nice peaky drops and shoulders.

Did my Glad to get that outta the way kooky sled ride.

Then got a handful of nice stuff. So did my son.

Hope he knows how proud of him I am !

I have only surfed Swami's 4 times before.

I can say this.

The line up has a great vibe to it.

NICE DAY !

You-ness, Me-ness, Us-ness, We-nes,..... sickness ? Nah !

As we share the water we are a perfect mirror image

Almost an exact match
Old, beat up, disaster surgeries, stitched back together, and almost functional

Most notably however , we love the water and can still do it.

surf on...

So.Cal. Big South Surfing Swell or bust

The much anticipated Big South shows up.......  so selectively
Today, session 42, was a good one for me. Needed it !

THIS is probably the smallest wave of this day

(#42 of the year 2013 ?  a pitiful number really )
0510AM

This swell was coming in 16 second intervals at about 205 degrees and the sets were all there were.
It was glassy, calm and flat as a lake in between head high sets.

Got a nice long left shoulder all glassy and kinda fast.
Got a Big Drop to the right that formed a great head high wall that I sped down
marveling at the speed and size of the wave the whole way.
That one put a big  shit eatin' grin on my face.
Dropped a big close out to the bottom then got lunch served up
( later in the morning, while bending down to pick up and load my board into the car, about a half of a water glass of warm sea water poured out of one nostril, mmmmmmmm !)
The reef was getting it in spades, a lot of close outs but so big and THUNDERING
I'm glad I stayed at the houses today .
Only 5 people to the reefs 20 at 545am
I am riding the white board now that the big blue has been given a death sentence by Ding King
Once I am up on it I can move it better. Once I am up she's good.
Getting up is a bit harder but I'm getting it.
Yesterday I snuck out at 510 am to sneak in a pre work surf.
I rarely get pissed surfing but I got pissed yesterday.
Went to the reef knowing I had about 1 hour in the water the rush off to work.
20 people there.
Finally get a left and right as I stand a shorter board comes from the inside and makes the wave I'm on.
Yeah happens everywhere but this one got to me because, well, it did.
After polling a dawn patrol buddy, I find out what I suspected, and that was " well he was closest to the peak.
Blah blah blah, yada yada yada, I give him, the snake,  the full finger and go, pissed.
So
I completely snake my dawn patrol buddies parking spot this morning and laughed my ass off over it.
As I slid into the spot( just like that snake did to me yesterday at the reef ) I heard this AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!
then he lit his wheels up in reverse and backed down the road the wrong way into a spot .
I thought I was gonna bust a gut.
I am a very bad man.

Surf on