OOOOO la la.
Very tough day @ the work. Left @ 4pm for home, stripped, suited and grabed the 10'2" to go and check it out. Pure glass,4:40pm,very warm, spring suit, 2 buddies and 1 famililar in the water. Weird little peaks showed. I took 3 to adjust my position on the board then everything turned sweet. After my 2nd semi nose ride through the drained out reef, I ran ashore. stripped to my trunks and surfed into the night with a glowing ember horizon and bright stars.
Cosmic, sensuous, bitchin STOKE.
Surfing and mother ocean never cease to totally amaze me.
Thank you Mother
Thank you God
wooooooooooooooooooo
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2 comments:
Oh, shut up!! I was at work all day and then . . . came home. Every time I went outside yesterday, I got mad. I wanted to be in the water. And now I read this!!! Hmph!! (Jealousy is an ugly emotion, isn't it?)
Hope all is well with you and yours sister. 12/03/23
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