Friday was cool. Got in @ 630 AM and there were, to my surprise, waves and lotsa people. Oh yeah Veteran's Day, duh. Well we all got a nice Veterans day gift. Nice off shores, nice rollers, nice vibe.
My 10'2" Chris slick is sooooo perfect sometimes. Those big fat deep rollers just set this magic board free, me too ! My son showed up about 8am with a 9 foot version of the same board and we just surfed it up. We like to switch boards in the water and that makes for even more fun. It is amazing that these 2 boards are the same shape and model, but the dims are different and they behave so differently. I love both of them. I think the Slicks are a bit fragile though.
We had a great time.
Saturday was different. I was in @ 6 and out by 8. Got about 6 decent rides. Satisfying.
Sunday Jason ( my son) and I were in @ 6. Only 3 people in the water and on a Sunday?!?
OK?
We paddle out through some good sized walls and a familiar says " good luck guys, these are a little much for me" and with that he beaches himself.
OK ......So Im thinking there rollin in then it's jack, wall, CRASH. No sweat.
I say no sweat because. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
I have been out over 150 days since Jan.1st.
I know this because I grab a shell after every session.
I've done this for this reason.
12/21/05
I watched big Wednesday
I watched big Thursday.
I watched slightly smaller big Friday.
I TRIED TO GO OUT on slightly smaller again, leftover Saturday.
At the time, I was incapable of paddeling out through 4-5 tiers of white water in short intervals.
It disgusted me, my son on the shore video taping my attempts to get outside, and each failure to do so.
That day I said "no more"!
So, on average, I have surfed every other day since.
Well, today I paddled with confidence both going out and
going for some pretty jacked up A frame waves. Got lotsa good ones, steep, fast and beach walls that required getting out of in a controlled way.
My son and I ruled the break today, ruled it.
The hard work, explanations to my wife and to my work, sore shoulders, people wondering about my obsession , have been worth it. I have put myself through 11 months of training and learning and it paying off.
There is still alot to accomplish.....but Im gettin there for sure and loving every session I have.
Life is very good @ 50
very, very good.
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2 comments:
You don't need to know about Slicks. You already have one!! Okay, okay. I have a 9'0" Slick now. The one I'm looking at is a 9'3", which is what I would use more for point breaks. The Tyler is just too damn heavy!
damn, that almost inspires me to get off my fat butt and surf more!
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