Theeees is the song I've been forced to sing for the last 3 weeks. Actually I've gotten out 5 times in 3 weeks, and I'm thankful for those sessions. Got several goodies and 2 Sundays ago I was lucky enough to fall into a super session @ Terramar proper and Igor's.
It was sunny, calm, glassy and nice shoulder highs rolling through.
All the regulars in the line up were totally fixated on the usual left.....and although I was just 10 yards south I had right after right for 30 yard rides and it was like I was "invisible".
No one was taking the rights, any of them.
It was H E A V E N, my first true nose rides , checking out the reef and the long reef grass swaying 10 feet below me and my board..........and this was one week into my illness. I thought, "well....this will kill me or cure me"..... and when that session was over I felt CURED.
Although the illness has lingered on it is finally over( bout 4 days ago)...whew.
Surf on ....
1 comment:
I'm sick too. But I was willing to stay sick longer if I could get a session over the last few weeks. That hasn't come to pass. Now I'm thinking I'll just call in one day next week, claim car trouble, and say I'll be late. Then, perhaps, I can get in the water
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