Terramar

Thursday, December 06, 2007

2nd day of 1st winter biggy Almost Magaine Cover

Day 2 of swell.... "Almost Magazine" picks me for the Cover shoot.
It was BIGGER, maybe twice the size of day one. I figure it was a 4 tier soup bowl. The waves were outside that and coming in sets of 5-10 waves with a clean-up of 2 in each set.
Well I guess I didn't pass this test. Suited up @ 350pm. Saw my friend Pat, he was trying to get out. Against my better judgement of paddle out spots, (small rip down @ palms) I chose going out close to a buddy( the buddy thing was a good choice).
I paddled for what seemed like 30 min. and got to within one wave of outside. I simply ran out of breath and strength at the worst time. I just couldn't hang, and turned. Pat made it outside. 5min. later there was a lull. I didn't make it long enough to catch that lull. I was so close.
I took this really hard.
Gonna fix some personal habits.
Gonna cross train for cardiopulmonary.

Hell I'm stoked I went at least, better than not for sure.
There's only one choice for me,
surf on...

2 comments:

pushingtide said...

Next time Bill. Seasoned regulars were havin' a tough go of it too.

Bill said...

I appreciate hearing that :)