Sat am I was expecting semi epic conditions. Got in @ 645 and got 2 keepers right away.
Beefy outsiders, kinda slow and deep in the morning glass. Offered up some great face until the close out. I recall "almost" making the last section but not quite, if I had made it that would have qualified for an epic ride. Got a few more, but as the tide rose(fast) things shut off quick, except for some truly thundering beach walls towards warm waters. That scene was not my game yesterday, its been 12 days since my last session and I'm just about over the flu coughing thing.
As I write,I'm preparing for today's DP, and as usual, am filled with stoke and hope.
Surf on...
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2 comments:
I was out at Terramar as well Sat morning DP...I was expecting a bit more, I guess I missed it on Sunday.
Yeah Sunday was considerable bigger and more consistant.
Surf there often?
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