Terramar

Wednesday, February 06, 2008

PHAT Tuesday was P E R F E C T ! ! ! !



I have had this planned for weeks, Tues thru Thurs off from work.
Why.... ?
This Friday, Feb. 8th '08'
I'm going under the knife for a disc removal in my lower back (L4-L5)
This procedure will allow me to be free to walk and stand for more than 2 min at a time without anymore excruciating pain in my legs and back.
I needed a really great, recent surf day under my belt
before I went in for this ......
and I GOT IT in A C E S ! !
Jason, my son, and I arrived in at our spot @ 10 am.
Warm, clear, offshores, glassy shoulder to head high waves ...
We had it ALL ALONE to ourselves.
It was as EPIC as I've seen in, well , a looooong time.
We just got our 10'2" nose rider back after being in the shop for 4 weeks.
Big steep drops, long, long shoulders, FOREVER rides, (and I mean almost 100 yarders), something that just doesn't happen much ! ! WoW. We were just laughing and grinning from ear to ear the whole time, time after time ! !
I got tubed for real for the first time.
" FROG HOUSED" I yelled, as it happened, as my son went over the top and out of that wave just in front of me. LoL it was just amazing. Just as many waves as we wanted, unreal amazing stuff !
It was as perfect as I could hope for.....
I love surfing with my son Jason,This day is one I can hold onto, remember clearly, use to inspire myself to get up and back into the water after my back is repaired, ASAP.
I couldn't have asked for anything more perfect and timely, for that I am forever grateful.
I am ready for the surgery now, and ready get right back to doing what I love.
soon to Surf on........

10 comments:

pushingtide said...

Good luck Bill. Bounce back quick!

Bill said...

Thanks man !

Absolutely will do...

Surfsister said...

I'll be thinking about you, Bill. How long will you have to be out of the water? Whatever it is, it's worth it if it makes you pain-free!

Bill said...

Thanks Sis ! !
I am told 4-6 weeks before returning to work.... so should be surfing in
about 5 days.... LoL just kidding.
Im not sure really. Im thinking about the same, 4-6 weeks. One thing for certain.... I will get in as soon as I possibly can :)

surf on Sister...

Anonymous said...

(Opps...meant to put this comment here. You may see it again) -- I'm sure the surgery will go well, Bill. I hope Jason realizes how lucky he his to spend time like this with his old man. Very cool. Talk to you soon, Jeff

Bill said...

Thx Jeffer,
Love yer screen name too.

MelondraBee said...

Damn I miss surfing in North County. I can't believe it was empty. Here in L.A. there would have been 50 guys on it, scrapping and fussing. *sigh*

Good luck with the surgery. I wish you a speedy recovery.

6ftnperfect said...

Hey, just saw this, hope the recovery is going well. I was at T-Mar this AM watching OH to DOH closeouts and wondered if you were out there taking it on. Guess not. Get well soon!

Anonymous said...

Was wonderin' where you had been. Miss your stokin' posts and comments. Hope the surgery recovery is still going well.

6ftnperfect said...

Bill, I shut down the blog, time to move on - how is the recovery? Post up!