After hearing all that talk of Gray and cold I went out this morning. Put on the suit for the first time. Cold water and air felt good. Saw Chuck and Dan get some sweet ones from outside in.
Paddled out no problems.
Paddled for about 5 waves with my friends, but the abdominal wounds were yelling at me so no stand ups today.
People were askin about my son Jason and I was missin' him out there today.
Still got stoked as some shoulder highs came through.
Good Day... no pain right now, just afterglow. I figure it'll be about a year
until I can actually "surf" again. Hell...... that's a blink of an eye really, the way time has been going for me.
I'm a HAPPY BOY...I'm a HAPPY BOY.... hey init great when things are going yer way
hey hey.......ba.. rump bump bump bada bada ba, hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba.
surf on...
8 comments:
You`ll be fine! just keep doing what you love , enjoy the scenery and fellowship. It`ll all come together soon enough
yeah Bill!!
Rad.
I'll be out in a few days.
Heres hoping the trend continues.
Man, look at that. It was 1 goddamn foot here in LA that day. I'm glad you got out there. Say, have you thought of riding a surf mat while you are on the mend. Those things look fun.
Who's a happy boy then? Great Bill... and I reckon Christian's onto something with the mat idea.
THX all...
surf mats aren't in my future...
I like the "in flight" feel too much...
surf on...
Awesome, good to hear. It's just like my passion for golf, i play through the pain. :)
Nice to see you out and about.
Tazz ;)
Excellent post, Bill.
David
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