Isn't that way cool. That the Ocean calls to us in the way it does.
Sounds screwy right ?
No.
Jason was hearing it. A favorite photo from Big Wed 12/21/05
P.S. My bad... that photo is from 12/21/05...........hmm first day of Winter too !
It was on that day that I knew I wanted to be on a 15-20 foot wave...,
that changed who I was. It was that day that I became so permanently stoked
...
3 comments:
Whoa. It was thumping out there. The surf here is so weak and lame.Eh, maybe that's a good thing.
To your point: Hell yeah!
Was out there this weekend, your part of town. Had nice Monday Swamis and Sunday Cardiff and enjoyed myself.
The stoke is there and abundant.
My bad... that photo is from 12/25/08
It was on that day that I knew I wanted to be on a 15-20 foot wave...,
that changed who I was. It was that day that I became so permanently stoked.
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