Tuesday's PM Surf was killed by the tide, but

I was warm, without human company, and I found myself in amazement while in the water catching a few swells.

Why was Sunday's Super Slick Session Sick ?

Because I have a great big






surfboard
that loves the glass.
Sometimes that board truly rules Ted's spot despite that
I am the one surfing on it LoL
Got out at about dark o'clock, trunks and ZERO air movement.
Water temp seemed up again.
There were 3 people in at Ted's.
Squat, Greg, and myself.
Alone.
Waves came through,
and we each got 'em.
Alone
Glassy ones, that got pushy on the inside.
Rights and lefts.
It took about a half hour for anyone else to get out.
I enjoyed this morning's session.
It was clean, quiet, glassy, and super glide(y)

Surf, surf ,and surfy surf.

Today's DP was nice, but slow. My in Laws, whom I love dearly, were in town and I didn't want to spend too much time away this morning and didn't.
In at 6am TRUNKS, out at 8 a little on the cool side.
4 -6waves
I did get "vague de la journée", so I was told.
A nice, outside solo that Aleta and I both paddled for, smiling.
She goes left I go right.
Thought I might get get frog housed ( LoL )- so I dug my right arm into the face and it slowed me, too much, probably.
Ahhh oh wel, it still was a great ride and got the compliments that I evidently (and secretly) need.
When they come it DOES, feel good.

Was out last Wednesday Pm after work and that was good too.
I actually had some really long shouldered lefts and was moving the big stick around pretty well for me.
Saw a new friend I have made at Terramar whom I haven't seen in awhile.
Kyle was injured about 2 months ago during some big surf when a ditched board cut his calf, literally right to the bone, for about what looks to be 9 inches or so. He took 3 layers of stitches and 2 months recovery, because someone let loose their board in a large set.
I really try to hold on these days. I learned a good lesson from his misfortune.
It was good to see him okay and back in the water again.
I know the feeling of being forced out of the water for periods of time too.
Kyle makes some super fine wood boards check this out http://karmasurfboards.com/home

SURFING is the LIFE for me

surf on ...

Saturday AM

Got out pretty early today 0630
Coulda got out @ 6 but didn't sleep well....work dreams YIKES ! !
Got a few nice ones as the tide turned and came up.
Nice, warm and glassy as we like it. Trunks if course.
Crowds came in fast this morning, probably cuz they saw me styling away on those smooth, long shoulders, uh huh !
Was catching rights after a few early lefts, so as not to get too tangled up with the others.
This worked out nicely.
I have never considered myself to be a great horizon set spotter but, I did ,and paddled away south and out to it ..... bam wave-o-the-day action for moi. A left,got a good drop, no one else was prepared, and much to my amazement, no one stood up on me ( shoulder hopped ) or otherwise.
Believe me that is rare around these parts, in these conditions, on weekend days, with those surfers.....LoL.
The return paddle out was rewarding too.
Got some more rights as the tide filled in and then got out by 820.
Sunday Im gonna get in at 6 and go directly to the reef as it looked( almost always does ) better.

It was a good surf morning.
I did, however, miss surfing with Jason and "the Dave".

surf on...

Sunday's swell was , well, swell

Better than Saturday
Sunday Swell was there but ...
Wind was on it immediately,I put on the spring suit up in the lot then took it off as soon as I got 2 toes in the ocean, so trunks in the wind...
Paddled outside and got a pretty nice left .
After that I would watch some friends get a few outside EPIC lefts. Head high drops and shoulders.
Most of the outside stuff would wall and closeout badly some with not so nice outcomes.
I avoided that scene... just wasn't in the mood to chance some smack downs today, so I stayed well within myself. After a bit it dawned on me that most all of the outside stuff was too closed out to get into and I picked up on the Terramar experts being inside and taking r i g h t s. Did the same and was feeling it. My rights were nice reasonably long, allowing me to get into the nose area several times.
Not what I truly wanted, that is to say I would have preferred some of those "better" rides ,but no worries, I like that I can surf at all.
I will

surf on...

I Paddled alot !

A funny "pre" windswell( ??) was on and coming on Saturday morning.
It was tough getting into any of the beach breakers for me and my long board.
I paddled to the reef , turned back n paddled to warmwater (hot water) maybe 78 degrees ?
Paddled back to Ted's and caught a few then rode one in.
As I stood on the cliff changing I saw some lines in the glass .