Sunday's swell was , well, swell

Better than Saturday
Sunday Swell was there but ...
Wind was on it immediately,I put on the spring suit up in the lot then took it off as soon as I got 2 toes in the ocean, so trunks in the wind...
Paddled outside and got a pretty nice left .
After that I would watch some friends get a few outside EPIC lefts. Head high drops and shoulders.
Most of the outside stuff would wall and closeout badly some with not so nice outcomes.
I avoided that scene... just wasn't in the mood to chance some smack downs today, so I stayed well within myself. After a bit it dawned on me that most all of the outside stuff was too closed out to get into and I picked up on the Terramar experts being inside and taking r i g h t s. Did the same and was feeling it. My rights were nice reasonably long, allowing me to get into the nose area several times.
Not what I truly wanted, that is to say I would have preferred some of those "better" rides ,but no worries, I like that I can surf at all.
I will

surf on...