Got to get out with Jason on a few days before Christmas as school is giving him a break. No more trunks now for awhile I suppose. A week ago Ted was beckoned from his 2nd story deck by my son and a friend an he bolted out in trunks. I of course was stuck at work. When I heard that one I got bent. One of those recent Santa Ana days mid morning small waves but trunkin it.....ahhhh.
Jason,his buddy Todd and I tried on Saturday, in the cold but really could'nt snag anything. THere was a pre-swell 20 minutes apart wave that would show up but that was it.
Later that day, more came thru but I was Christmasing with the family, a good thing.
Sunday am we go out too cold too closed out, alida,pat went I grossed about it all day.
so Monday was gonna be an early out of work or should I say get outta work on time for a change day. Paddled out with Dave @ 345 and witnessed some true power under and "over" me. SMart ass kid and a great couple 6 foot in and outs a 10 foot thumper that sent me under and backwards about 10 yards wondering which way was up. Finally a nice head and shoulder ride in with Dave. We laughed about it and finished well
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Wednesday, December 09, 2009
Very Cool Wednesday PM session
This has been an interesting
few weeks for me. I have been struggling with work in setting up a new specimen collection office for a large San Diego Medical Laboratory. I designed it from the ground up.
First time for that.
All eyes on me.
Finally we opened and it is going great on day 4.
However, LOTSA STRESS leading up to this, and not much surf time, which is a tough combo.
The weekends have been ok with a few really good sessions sparsely mixed in. Notably, witnessing my son Jason getting some great stuff and riding well. Myself getting more waves per session than usual .
Tonight was a hoot.
Very stressed and ready to go, I raced out at 4;30 pm and paddled into some very large sets.
Stoked, I waited for the right set and picked an overhead right that got my heart a pumping.Ride an ever increasing shoulder for a bit, turned as it was about to close out , and rode in into 1 foot of water and hopped of at 5;20 pm. PERFECTION.
Just what we ordered........ ah big waves of winter.
Gonna be a fun week if the weather holds.
surf on
few weeks for me. I have been struggling with work in setting up a new specimen collection office for a large San Diego Medical Laboratory. I designed it from the ground up.
First time for that.
All eyes on me.
Finally we opened and it is going great on day 4.
However, LOTSA STRESS leading up to this, and not much surf time, which is a tough combo.
The weekends have been ok with a few really good sessions sparsely mixed in. Notably, witnessing my son Jason getting some great stuff and riding well. Myself getting more waves per session than usual .
Tonight was a hoot.
Very stressed and ready to go, I raced out at 4;30 pm and paddled into some very large sets.
Stoked, I waited for the right set and picked an overhead right that got my heart a pumping.Ride an ever increasing shoulder for a bit, turned as it was about to close out , and rode in into 1 foot of water and hopped of at 5;20 pm. PERFECTION.
Just what we ordered........ ah big waves of winter.
Gonna be a fun week if the weather holds.
surf on
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