This has been an interesting
few weeks for me. I have been struggling with work in setting up a new specimen collection office for a large San Diego Medical Laboratory. I designed it from the ground up.
First time for that.
All eyes on me.
Finally we opened and it is going great on day 4.
However, LOTSA STRESS leading up to this, and not much surf time, which is a tough combo.
The weekends have been ok with a few really good sessions sparsely mixed in. Notably, witnessing my son Jason getting some great stuff and riding well. Myself getting more waves per session than usual .
Tonight was a hoot.
Very stressed and ready to go, I raced out at 4;30 pm and paddled into some very large sets.
Stoked, I waited for the right set and picked an overhead right that got my heart a pumping.Ride an ever increasing shoulder for a bit, turned as it was about to close out , and rode in into 1 foot of water and hopped of at 5;20 pm. PERFECTION.
Just what we ordered........ ah big waves of winter.
Gonna be a fun week if the weather holds.
surf on
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Bill...I will have to make a point of finding out who you are in the water one day. No doubt we both know each other from our boards and handing off waves. I really enjoy reading your words and seeing the posts of pics. I too have a son and it would seem we both have the same taste in waves as Terramar has always been my little slice of paradise. I have been going there since the mid 70's. It's really strange to read your comments about all the same places and people. I just cant seem to place you. That would be because I somehow let work get in the way of my waves. I am workin' on reversing the priorities though. My name is Gary by the way. I ride a few boards but lately its been a 9' Kies board. White with blue stripes. And I also kept the shorts on till the last possible day. I am usually out for the evening sessions. Take care dude. Keep posting...you have no idea how I live through your posts when I am working up north in LA like today.
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