DAYLIGHT SAVINGS ......... HELL YES ! ! ! !

Today was so necessary...
In the water at 440pm
good bye worries
GLASS.....SWELL.....SUN.....the great life ! ! !


I surfed well
My friends Dave and Pat and Kyle were there.


2 years ago to the day I was getting ready to leave the hospital after 40 days of PURE NIGHTMARE SHIT.

I was wondering how it would be at home....
with 3 hoses running into various points of my body into cavities in my abdomen sucking out 3 distinct types of vile pus from each pocket of infection.
I had a 1 foot gaping slash in my abdomen that was unstichable due to the underlying infection.
I had a machine electronically sucking crap out of that 24 hours a day that i was attached to.
I could no longer walk for more than 15-20 feet at a time.
I had lost 60 pounds of muscle.
I would not be able to get water on myself for months.
I had a bag attached to my stomach to collect poop and could no longer take a dump.
I never really thought I would surf again and was wondering how I would be able to do anything again actually.
Transfusions
Pulmonary embolisms
PAIN PAIN PAIN
DRUGS DRUGS DRUGS
Agony

LOVE LOVE LOVE
PATIENCE
FAITH
GOD
FAMILY
FRIENDS
The dream of being in the water, surfing yes, but also just getting wet in the pool, a lake, the shower, or any water.

Today in the water after I caught and rode well 10 -12 waves my friend pat looked at me and said " just like old times".

For me it will never be like old times exactly.
My body will never be quite right but.....
In some ways it will be more deeply appreciated and thus enjoyed more perhaps.
THANK GOD for family and friends.
THANK GOD for a pretty good body.
THANK GOD for surfing.
THANK YOU !