I personally have never seen the waves line up like they did last night .

I have met many surfers since I started surfing Terramar who have SURFED there 40 years +

I have only been surfing 8-9 years.
All of it has been Terramar,
except maybe 20-30 sessions elsewhere.
Last night was one of the best after work surfs ever.
I personally have never seen ( or been "able" to see ) the waves line up like they did last night .

On the sets, the shoulder/head peaks would break north of Teds house, about at the vacant lot, and then this right hand shoulder would just line up and stand up in the sweetest way ever.
I got about 6-8 rides from that point, practically all the way to the Terramar beach club stairs.
( still in trunks mind ya )
I actually was so tired from paddling back to the line up, over AND OVER, ha,
that I had to get out early.
Seriously I was over worked and kind of over stoked.
It was just wild really, for me it was, just weirdly WILD.
I am surfing better than I thought I would be able to.
I have always dreamed of, you know, endless nose rides, gettin' shacked, dropping 15 footers, roundhouse turns, etc, etc. You know the "dreams".
Well now I am beginning to think that some of these dreams will be attainable for me.
Strangers were looking up at me, as I nose rode through them, like I was, well, like I was surfing really good.
After each ride and paddle back, I would just lay there' totally exhausted and out of breath' with the hugest grin ever and just laughing out loud.

So stoked
wow

surf on...

Like a kid in the Candy Store

is how I was described surfing on Saturday by a friend ...
What a delight !
Saturday I got there for the (pre)dawn patrol thing., mostly driven from the need to surf and the impending super high tide swing early in the AM.
A good surfer, Terry, always seems to be the first out at the reef, and this time I got an invite to go with him and another of his friend at dark O'clock.
In ALL my time surfing I have never paddled out to that wave with no one already there or paddling in front of me.
That in itself was a like a kid walking into a candy store with just some friends and no one else. It wasn't spectacular conditions or waves but having that place in the warm glassy solitude is a treat. Got a few nice rides and some welcomed tips for catching that particular wave. BIG GRIN BILL, in the water, atleast that's what I feel like.
Sunday I slept in til 6am and missed out on the solo paddle out, but did arrive back at the reef around 645. Once again the vibe was good, some sets showed up and I got a few reef waves.
STOKED
Pat showed up around 0830 and just plopped right into the pit on the wave-o-the-day to my inside right. I backed off and he got such a great ride.
Surfing is so good for me, us, well most of us.
It is so good to be a little kid at 54
surf on...

I'm Hopeful after tonight

I'm Hopeful after tonight
that the swell we all felt in the water ( along with the 68 degree temp) tonight and the fact that these lines, as seen below will pan out to some decent surf
in the next couple days....
If you were in tonight or this afternoon you probably felt it too.
Had a good surf with my son......nothing exceptional but we each got a few and had fun.
Talked with Greg out in the water tonight, one of my Terramar surfing heroes who evidently discovered this blog. It is always a bit, well, embarrassing, when that happens, as I know that others where I surf have seen inside of me through this diary, journal, blog.

surf on

Changing conditions

Here's to good change ! !
Last entry I spoke of a change in my surfing.
To me it is as obvious as the nose on my face,
(that keeps changing too...it gets bigger)
The change may not be so obvious to others.
Eh........., so what.
I have been waiting for a "plateau break through" for a very long time.
Now I am feeling it. It is happening.
I can loosen up the board under me,
get it ready to follow the wave and my direction.
I seem to have a better understanding in my legs as to what to do,
without thinking about it.

I am stoked.


Today, Saturday, I was in at 0620 and out at 0720
High tide became too much.
I did manage a couple nice waves alone before the morning shift came in.
I did put on a spring suit today..... my first day since, well, April without just trunks on.
I don't like that much, it is constricting at the least,
and robs me of the waters sensuousness.
Last week was so great and pivotal.
It was a good morning this morning.
Tomorrow, as in each next surfing day,
will be better as far as my ability and enjoyment go.

surf on...