Terramar

Saturday, October 09, 2010

Changing conditions

Here's to good change ! !
Last entry I spoke of a change in my surfing.
To me it is as obvious as the nose on my face,
(that keeps changing too...it gets bigger)
The change may not be so obvious to others.
Eh........., so what.
I have been waiting for a "plateau break through" for a very long time.
Now I am feeling it. It is happening.
I can loosen up the board under me,
get it ready to follow the wave and my direction.
I seem to have a better understanding in my legs as to what to do,
without thinking about it.

I am stoked.


Today, Saturday, I was in at 0620 and out at 0720
High tide became too much.
I did manage a couple nice waves alone before the morning shift came in.
I did put on a spring suit today..... my first day since, well, April without just trunks on.
I don't like that much, it is constricting at the least,
and robs me of the waters sensuousness.
Last week was so great and pivotal.
It was a good morning this morning.
Tomorrow, as in each next surfing day,
will be better as far as my ability and enjoyment go.

surf on...

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