I personally have never seen the waves line up like they did last night .

I have met many surfers since I started surfing Terramar who have SURFED there 40 years +

I have only been surfing 8-9 years.
All of it has been Terramar,
except maybe 20-30 sessions elsewhere.
Last night was one of the best after work surfs ever.
I personally have never seen ( or been "able" to see ) the waves line up like they did last night .

On the sets, the shoulder/head peaks would break north of Teds house, about at the vacant lot, and then this right hand shoulder would just line up and stand up in the sweetest way ever.
I got about 6-8 rides from that point, practically all the way to the Terramar beach club stairs.
( still in trunks mind ya )
I actually was so tired from paddling back to the line up, over AND OVER, ha,
that I had to get out early.
Seriously I was over worked and kind of over stoked.
It was just wild really, for me it was, just weirdly WILD.
I am surfing better than I thought I would be able to.
I have always dreamed of, you know, endless nose rides, gettin' shacked, dropping 15 footers, roundhouse turns, etc, etc. You know the "dreams".
Well now I am beginning to think that some of these dreams will be attainable for me.
Strangers were looking up at me, as I nose rode through them, like I was, well, like I was surfing really good.
After each ride and paddle back, I would just lay there' totally exhausted and out of breath' with the hugest grin ever and just laughing out loud.

So stoked
wow

surf on...