Yeah it got pretty big last night @ Terramar.
Shape wasn't what I was hoping for exactly,. I was hoping for a repeat of last Friday nights wave , but it was close. Good to feel POWER under you and get the heart thumping and all. Jason snapped his leash during his second surf with me last night. Good thing some good folks had a leash to lend him as he came back out and really caught some large stuff and rode them well.....
I caught a few and really had a couple of great drops... I always feel good when I stick a steep drop and bottom turn.
Everyone at Terramar was super stoked.... LIKE !
Below is a great recent interview with the late Andy Irons. RIP Andy
His ending statement is one of my favorites
A.I. " I surf because I'm always a better person when I come in"
Amen surf on...
1 comment:
There's actually no need for a reason. It's about fun and surfing is fun so just enjoy it.
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