Sundays Surf

Although I was up at 0530, I left dawn patrol to the sunrise and the clouds.
This morning I would be able to surf with my son.
Surfing with Jason has a huge significance in my life.
It is 50% of what got me out of an awful situation about 3 years ago.

I look forward to spending time in the water with Jason. I hope to spend it with his children, if I am ever so lucky.

Today we were in at 0915
Trunks and sunshine, really nice stuff.
Jason on the big board surfing well, trying out some backside pig doggin' ala Andy Irons Tips and Tricks.
He did well with it.
I caught a few and missed a few. We swapped boards and I immediately pearled with not enough of that board in front of me.Then caught some nice rights and lefts. I am really liking the thinner and shorter Cris Slick these days.

All in all today was great!
I love November in San Diego.

Below a photo of a fellow surfer I just met, Greg I believe.
He is perched smack in the middle of paradise.
Maybe he's thinking of his son, Brendon, in Hawaii.
http://brendonsrants.blogspot.com/
Maybe he has just closed his eyes and is drifting into the sun, or perhaps dreaming of riding waves.
Perfect.


Nice Day

surf on....