I have really been feeling the temporary nature of life on this earth lately.
Had a good morning surf yesterday despite the fact the waves were small.
Sat in the very clear , glassy water with the dawn's sunshine on me and a handful of other Terramarians.
Got a couple of good rides and a couple of not so good rides.
It's the smaller ones that define skill and finesse I think.
But I'm working on it.
After 0830 I ran back up and did pull of that damn wetsuit, then got back in for some trunks.
Spent a lot of the rest of the day reflecting on life and such. Some really great footage of memorials to Andy Irons on surfline.
What style that man had.
He was like a soul surfing short boarder.
WHAT INCREDIBLE FORM AND SKILL
Today, Sunday,my son is finally not working a day so we will give it a go and get what we can. Maybe Swamis :)
surf on....
1 comment:
I hear you, man. I struggle with the concept of aging and death. I am barely able to wrap my mind around the idea that I'm not going to live forever.
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