Wow.... just wow

Surfing after work with my son.
A few good friends .
Pure glass.

Warm AND cool water.
Trunks, so water flowing all over me as I like it.
Shoulder to head high set peaks.
A-frame waves where right shoulders would form up and then scream along for 25 yards plus.
Incredible skies with thunder heads partially lite up.
Spacey, spatters of little puffs spread out in different patterns across the sky.
Warm air
AMAZING SUNSET.

And

I have never done on a surfboard what I was able to do this night.

Or

maybe I should say that for the first time,
I was able to do everything I WANTED TO DO on a wave, without falter !
After 8 years I felt I could finally surf !

Drop turns with nothin" but rail in the water
>to lip smack @ 11 o'clock
>to cut back
> to up to 3/4 to the top of the wave
> to hand digs into the wall to slow it down
> to water on my back
>to perfect trim line
> to cross stepping up to nose rides for 25-50 yard faces moving at a good clip......

I did this beautiful thing, on two consecutive waves.
FINALLY
Amazing

I am humbled that I might experience this.

My son and friends had great rides too.

Thank you God, family, friends, and mother ocean for the chance.

surf on....