Terramar

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Yeah it's thumpin' and everyone knows it!



So I won't bore you or myself with the less than spectacular results of my morning session.
Got the normal ( he's insane ) looks for being in trunks. No matter.
Funny really how it upsets the apple cart to a degree.
I do enjoy surfing in the cold. It makes me feel good.
The REEF had occasional and thunderous sets roar through.
2 FOOT OVERHEAD tubes chasing
them down and catching up with many.
Saw a lot of boards flying like pick-up sticks.
I was wishing I was there, just waiting for a wave to myself.
I saw a dozen empty big waves go through (right after a few clean ups).
This will be my strategy tomorrow morning.


Enjoy the swell....I will give it my best !

Of note,
This Monday, Laurie and I are going to fly to S.F., then drive the coast
up to the Canadian border.
Just myself, Laurie, and a fast convertible.......

surf on


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