It's been 20 days but I got in today

After weeks of not being in the water, I put on the suit (ecch) and paddled out.
Warm water Jetty was goin off.... I didn't go there probably a good call as I was tired surfing TerraMar and it's smaller offerings.
Got a few, missed a few, botched a few, got stoked on a few.
Got out at the 2 hour mark
Nice sunny day, nice friends,
nice waves, not so nice smell in the water.

Got some stoke and gonna try to carry that into the up coming week, improved weather and waves
PLUS
the days are getting longer :)
I will start toting my board to work
Yeah that's a good new years resolution
I will start toting my board to work
Happy New Year to all
surf on

Thurs night I snuck out

I had brought the board to work with high hopes of 4-7 footers as predicted.
IT seems so long since some decent size waves were around.
Between my continuing post surgical issues, working long hours,
and the l a c k of s u n l i g h t at the end of the days now, getting super stoked sessions are much fewer and farther in between.
Anyway, after work Thursday it was in the water at 4:15PM .
The mystery fog had rolled in and completely covered any view of the ocean. As I ran down and paddled out I could see no one in the water, until about 20 yards out then I could see a few and some shoulder high stuff, mostly closeouts. Got stoked on a couple drop, turn, lip turn, drop and outs. Got out feeling' good. My friend Pat got me a CD that had a short clip of me surfing OK....that was cool.
Friday was Christmas Party at work thing.Had a lot of fun going out with Laurie and dancing it up.
Surf wise, my hope turned to Saturday and some promised good conditions.
Saturday was a bit of a let down. I got there at 730 and there were peaky waves in the cold glass, and stark winter morning light. I had the hardest time getting into any of these winter waves.Squat( Jim) says "just in the wrong place at the wrong time".... I dunno bout that.
These are the hardest waves for me. I did wiish for either of 2 other boards but...
The competition is strong for peaky pop ups, and so many surf the shoreline so much better than I.
Still its TRUE that it is always gratifying to just to get in and frankly the cold is stimulating.
Gonna keep packing my board to work and working on the beach breaks if I must,( and I must).
With Gods grace there will be another day, another chance and another big wave to have at.
Dec. 22nd the days begin to get longer
surf on

Well that was refreshing

After weeks of not getting into the ocean for many reasons, yesterday, Saturday, I was able to get it together enough to get in and actually ride some liquid energy.
The killing high tide of 7 feet at 8am was avoided by.....TA DAA
using my big brain
and going out on the downward side of 4-3 feet at about 1030 am.
Super Glass, cold water, (bummer that I had a wet suit on)
high wisps of stratus clouds giving way to beautiful bright sunlight.
Add into the mix a couple friends, many dolphins, NO CROWDS and finally...
Waves
albeit, mostly waist high, nonetheless, enough push to allow the flight to happen .

So...... after 2 weeks of ,
well
that's over now isn't it?

Again there is hope of more to come, and soon it appears.
surf on