Thurs night I snuck out

I had brought the board to work with high hopes of 4-7 footers as predicted.
IT seems so long since some decent size waves were around.
Between my continuing post surgical issues, working long hours,
and the l a c k of s u n l i g h t at the end of the days now, getting super stoked sessions are much fewer and farther in between.
Anyway, after work Thursday it was in the water at 4:15PM .
The mystery fog had rolled in and completely covered any view of the ocean. As I ran down and paddled out I could see no one in the water, until about 20 yards out then I could see a few and some shoulder high stuff, mostly closeouts. Got stoked on a couple drop, turn, lip turn, drop and outs. Got out feeling' good. My friend Pat got me a CD that had a short clip of me surfing OK....that was cool.
Friday was Christmas Party at work thing.Had a lot of fun going out with Laurie and dancing it up.
Surf wise, my hope turned to Saturday and some promised good conditions.
Saturday was a bit of a let down. I got there at 730 and there were peaky waves in the cold glass, and stark winter morning light. I had the hardest time getting into any of these winter waves.Squat( Jim) says "just in the wrong place at the wrong time".... I dunno bout that.
These are the hardest waves for me. I did wiish for either of 2 other boards but...
The competition is strong for peaky pop ups, and so many surf the shoreline so much better than I.
Still its TRUE that it is always gratifying to just to get in and frankly the cold is stimulating.
Gonna keep packing my board to work and working on the beach breaks if I must,( and I must).
With Gods grace there will be another day, another chance and another big wave to have at.
Dec. 22nd the days begin to get longer
surf on