Thank you all for fighting for US,
sacrificing for our continued freedom and the freedom of others forever !
surf on
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Terramar
Terra-ticker
About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 20 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 2 1/2 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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Surfing is getting more relaxed these days. I'm surfing better. Better than before the surgical disaster. A lot of that has to do with 2 thi... -
Got a few waves out there Saturday, the first of 5 days off work. It was good it's always good.
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Friday night and Saturday Morning were good. PM surfing was with my son. It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son. JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+N...
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The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired. Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get ou... -
Today was so necessary... In the water at 440pm good bye worries GLASS.....SWELL.....SUN.....the great life ! ! ! I surfed well My friend...
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Lately I have not spent as much time in the water as I would like/ need to. I have not written in this blog in awhile now, which is really... -
SCHOOLED Kinda flat looking. I decide to go in anyways even though my "buds" bailed on me before I got there. Got to know a long time T Ma...
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So I am on the plane to Maui today 12/2/11 This comes after a rough week and an abominably hard day at work, trying to clean up everything.....
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Having to look in the Mirror Today @ 730AM nobody was out . @ 8AM I went out never made it outside... Simply didn't have the stren... -
is how I was described surfing on Saturday by a friend ... What a delight ! Saturday I got there for the (pre)dawn patrol thing., mostly d...
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