that it was all un-expected.
Yesterday, after work I only had 1 hour of light left to pack the truck up and get to the water and surf...and I choose not to do it.
Last night I saw a picture of a wave from that evening @ Terramar and I wished I could have gone.
In anticipation of a good morning surf if rain,wind, and tide didn't muck it up, I got up @ at 0500 and headed out towards the beach through the pouring rain, and thought to myself that it wouldn't be worth it and turned around and went swimming at the gym instead.
Saw the cam at noon and there were head high glassy lines breaking soft.
Planned the tide turn around and went out with Dave.
Started raining hard.
Got in and had a great time.
4-5 good rights at the palms with glassy shoulder high fat ones.
I expected another hard paddle out but it wasn't a problem.
I expected difficulty getting into these waves, but I brought the right board and it was GOOD.
Stoked
and
thankful.
surf on
3 comments:
Hey Bill,
So nice to read what you've been up to. Glad you had a good surf recently.
Bill, I was at the reef at the same time on Saturday. I was surprised to see your truck when I got out at 1:30 PM. Glad to hear you had fun. I got into some big drops but the waves slowed down real quick. Hope it gets good this Saturday. c-ya
Terry
Hope to see ya soon IN THE WATER Terry.
Thanks Jaimie, good to hear from you how about that Duke?
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