Sunday July 14, 2013 #'s 55 and 56. A two-fer

How often do you get to surf

Terramar beach,Carlsbad, California USA

A L O N E ?

 #55 Nobody on the cliff. Nobody on the beach. 

Nobody in the water,

except I

Due to a road closure for a triathlon, I parked a side street and walked into the dark sea.

Well, I do believe another Bill was in the water down at the reef.
It may as well have been a reef 2000 miles away as I couldn't see or hear anything.
I surfed some nice waves in solitude and with out concern for a single thing.
I could hear my board in the water on each wave.
The channels to the fin make a pleasing sound when the board is moving fast and I'm turning.
This new board facilitates my turning.

A great experience this morning !

#56 Sunday part deux

My son and I went out at 3pm in the broad, bright daylight.

Went to the reef out of necessity ( size can matter )

I caught a nice reef wave amongst 25 others in the line up from outside to in.

Kinda like running an obstacle course.

Jason and I caught our wave in together , only to be hopped and snaked by the PRO's at the reef.

Still, a great day together in the water together for "us".

 "Us"
That's what started the whole thing.

A GREAT DAY INDEED !

Surf number 54

0500 Super glassy

 

FUN ! !

Smaller at houses than reef , but.....surfed solo for maybe 20 minutes  and had some nice

LONG face rides into the beach. Seems like since the sand redistribution last year that there is a reform on the inside that's fun.

Still getting used to the differences on the new board,

Moved the fin up an inch and I believe I like it better all the way back

A new swell coming on Wed, Eve inspired me to request

this coming Thurs and Fri. off.

I look forward to riding this board in a powerful wave.

As of now it seems a bit slow compared to the big blue and yellow,

I need to feel some power under and behind it.

                                                               

4th of July ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Fifty first surf of the year

Bang !

My wonderful board of 7 or 8 years has split open right down the middle.
Filled with " STUFF"
I cut it open and its draining and drying.
Many specialists say just " let her go man ", but it's hard, I mean what if my wife did that when I was going thru dire straits ?

Here's what I found after years of searching for the inevitable replacement board.

 THURSDAY The Fourth of July, #51  was super small and I found I could get into a few of those in a very different way then when on the other board. This board I can paddle, let up, and let the board glide into position and tell me when to stand. That is something I could never do before and it was profoundly different and affects me in a very good way.....Yay !I choose to stay away from friends and concentrate on the board and the wave more. Got out in 2 hours and maybe 10 or so waves ridden,,, small and weak waves but caught and ridden none the less.

SATURDAY  # 52 in at 5 am alone for 30 minutes in the bigger glass. Got many rides on knee high shoulders.

The reef was waist and above, however I stayed away as to maximize the amount of waves to get on my new board. It was good !

SUNDAY, #53 got in first and was joined by my DP buddies right away.

Waves not as potent but I got more delayed takeoffs and got to feel the board under me a bit more.

I am very STOKED on this board.

Was super anxious about it and am now feeling super stoked about it.