Cold, Clear, and Glassy , but there are no waves in Reno

Surfing at Terramar is changing...................... for me, in a very good way. "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"

I'm getting even more stoked these days.
Soo stoked I had to quote the infamous Jeff .Spicoli.

The last 2 larger swells that have rolled through, have allowed me to start to break out of a performance plateau .

 

I am feeling the power of the wave more and understanding how I need to respond to changes in the waves as I ride .

I am so joyous while surfing its kinda weird !

I remember while learning to snow ski some 30 years ago, what it felt like to go from doing a "stem Christie" one ski at a time turn, to doing a parallel fluid turn.
It was all of a sudden, and profound.
Well this last 2 weeks has not been as sudden of a change as that was,  but it is changing for me in a good way. A way that raises my daring and confidence to a higher level.
To quote Jeff Spicoli "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"
I like it... A LOT ! !

VERY STOKED
VERY HAPPY
VERY SURPRISED ! !

Surf on

Dawn Patrol .. how beautiful can it get

Today was surf # 6 in 2014.  This morning was different in that
lines were in the water.

Only myself and one other paddled out for "Dawn Patrol"(so far)
In 30 minutes here is what we found..
A swell in the water, enough  to tumble  on the paddle out.
Solitude.
Stayed out of each others hair for the first part of the surf.
Solitude.................... Quiet
The swell started to come, sets in a row.
We are alone in the ocean as far as the eye could see, catching any waves that were desired.I may have missed one or two by this time but had 8-10 in the bag very quickly.
I was taking mostly rights... at a left hand break
I was making nice drops and bottom turns and breaking with my inside hand to try to get covered in the waves where it was appropriate.
Fun ......................... FUN
Sunrise began waking up the sky
Super clear Skies ,light blue dawn skies,
just a couple of pink and orange wispy clouds in the sunrise
Super clear water......
Dolphins............a lot of them
Rolled right off the board and dove right down to greet one that was only about a foot out of reach.
I was answered back with a bit of dolphin dialog, haunting and beautiful as he swam by.
Super glassy water... glass and solitude are what I get up so early for.
Caught many knee to waist waves in the first part of the Dawn Patrol....
Many waves....  some of them split between the only two surfers in the water, right and left.
I was actually overcome with stoke and joy.
Stoke... Joy .
So nice !
After the solitude a couple of other Dawn Patrols came .
Now 4 were in the water .
Only 4
Still so good.
Dawn patrol is a GOOD group.

Got a few more, and so did every one else. Good times !

Got out at 7:45AM and headed up the the cliff.

I am so fortunate and very thankful
very thankful ! !

surf on

Here comes the BiG StuFF.. u u u f f f

This year has seen not much of any thing from the winter waves I thought would have been here by now. Last "year"(2012) I recall both a November and December had some large swell. This year 2013 Nov and Dec were very tame and small. Well I have now 4 days in this New Year. 2014 and here comes the first big winter swell for Southern California. In about 10 days there is a prediction for 10 day or more of 4-10foot plus WELL ALRIGHTY THEN I'm gonna get as much as I can surf on

SANTA I want some Big Glassy Fat Ones to surf in 2014 ....... and oh yeah .......

I do LOVE THE OCEAN
1/1/14 I cant get enough of it. I am hopeless to resist its call. It calls a lot ! !
It was beautiful and the FIRST SURF OF THE YEAR as in #1
Sunny Clear and COLD in the air with about 59 degree water.
Surfed some big Tides that were 7'+ in Dawn Patrol
Really not feeling the hide tide inside so much
But the conditions were so spectacular that after getting a couple waves in the tidal smackdown, I chose to float on my back in the water at 0700 AM on the first of January !
SUNNY CLEAR CRISP AIR
and
 CLEAR BEAUTIFUL, GREEN BLUE WATER
I mean clear like a swimming pool and looking at the mix of sand,rock, grass,reef ,and fishes as I float along. There is just something very cool about doing this in January .

I Love it... all that is surfing.

Happy New Year

surf on...