AFTER the last Sunday session on my Beautiful 10'3" Chris Slick Noseider I saw the crack in the deck......lotsa water comin out.....thats goin to the shop for a good 2-3 weeks
BUMMER
TODAY I took my other Slick, (I have 3 heehee), a California Classic, which is a hybrid of a retro/modern 9 foot board, 2+1 ,not alot of rocker, and drove to the spot about 4 pm expecting windy,cold,SMALL chop and slop.
AS I pulled up I spied the only 2 surfers out there, 2 of my buds. Funny thing is they were way far out there ......
SUITED up and started the paddle out only to see BIG,FAST Walls on the outside and Pat and Dave scratching over them......
MADE it out( tough paddle out) and turned on the first wave.....steep drop, fast, hard, bottom turn and flew out the top in a swan dive over the back.
NEXT one was BIG FAST and LOOOOONG...........wooooooooooo eeeeeeeeeee
Stayed out through rain,rainbows, wind, chop,clearing skies, calm winds, glass off, spectacular sunset, and about 8 really great waves and rides. Doing things I have not done before. In tune and rockin'.
GOD I LOVE DAYS LIKE THIS, I just love 'em
Surf ON
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