Today was wet and wild.
Tough,tough paddle out..... nobody else was in the water. 3 way cross ups, deep pits in the peaks, big bumps on the shoulders,walls, die-outs ,waves about 3-5 seconds apart. Every once in awhile it was like all the "cross-ups" came together into one big bomber and yeehaw !! My total #$*&@ day at work vanished from my mind in about 3 seconds. The concentration was refreshing and VERY necessary. Had some great rides and got my ass kicked too ..... perfect!
Yep.....likin' the Victory at Sea stuff.... makes a man outta ya !
Surf on
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1 comment:
good on ya!
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