Terramar

Monday, March 05, 2007

My best yet

Surfing has been a real mixed bag lately.
Haven't wanted to write either. Let me sum it up.
It's mostly been weekend warrior suff due to either weather or work.
FIRST PART OF FEB.
Keeping me dry,or trying to was the weather, but I went out for hour long sunset sessions for 5 days in a row. Semi "Victory at Sea" conditions, and it felt GOOD.
By the time the weekend came around I recall a Saturday of Big, hard to catch waves, but I was "paddle ready". That Saturday was challenging the whole groups of "regulars" including myself. However my ride in wave was epic. Nasty drop,way outside, jacked up, head high,glassy,right, and rode it to the sand. That was worth me working thru the victory at sea week for sure. I felt satisfied.
Next week was kinda the same, maybe 3 mid-week sessions, then the weekend. Again, nice conditions and surprisingly large waves on the outside. Odd that the line up was largely un-populated,probably the booming closeouts, big, fat, fast, walled up booming close-outs. Had to have patience, which I DO.
After a series of drop,rise and get out kinda waves,
the big mack clean-up wave shows.
I remember thinking "I'm too deep, ah screw it" and dropping straight down a very fast, foot or two overhead, swifty. Made the knarly bottom turn right, and straight up to the lip, locked in my track and took off like a freakin' rocket, way high up on the wave. Rode up and down the face but parallel the length of the ride( 75 yards !!)
This is on my 10'3" Slick mind you. Well on that day I finally heard my board sing.
Not only did it "sing" but it belted it out, loud and proud. That sound was amazing, I wont forget it. At the end of this wave I sat spent and made about 3 or 4 arms raised over the head victory yells.

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