Tamarack was firing big for the first part of the arriving swell. 4 wave sets spaced 5 min between the sets, head high ++.
25 bowling pins crowed into a 10 yard takeoff spot. Not for me, I hate bowling for shorties.
Drove to Terra Mar knowing it wouldn't be as good and it wasn't. I went out.
Caught the first big wave ....... it WAS good.
In 1 hour I only saw 4 more biggies. Got all of them. In between there was NOTHING.
South to Igor's and further south were more frequent BIG FAT WALLS closing out fast.
I'm stoked, hell when Im in the water I'm ALWAYS STOKED, thank God ! !
I'm feeling good about tonight and Looking Forward to the next 3-4 days, hoping my little Private Idaho will pan out.
Hope is a wonderful thing.
Solitude is as well.
surf on........
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