The last 3 Nights were magic.
Pure glass, few people, warm air, and cool water with a slight offshore.
Off in the distance a silhouette of the islands against the fire red glowing band on the horizon . To the west clear skies fade from red to light blue to navy, to purple to black, the crescent moon surrounded by a few stars. This happened @ 5:20 pm
All of this, all at once, was spectacular !
THEN the W a V e S come in ! !
Shoulder + peaks, pure glass with lots of long navel sized shoulders. Rides from outside to the sand, over and over and over. A long board, soul surfers dream.
H e a v e n !
2 comments:
what is this suring in the evening you speak of???
Ha....its only that good in those conditions. But I will say that when you surf a face primarily "feeling your way" across the face , well it has made me a better surfer for sure and the un-certainty factor is a great rush.
Post a Comment