Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Da Boards

The Clear board is a 9'6" Chris Slick "California classic" not alot of rocker, fast, likes the bigger faster stuff
The Yellow and blue ( in the middle) is a 10'3" Slick NR3.......Killer in the big fat swells and small stuff too. It's kinda magical.
The White and blue is a 9"3" Slick NR3, thinner, whippy, nose rider and DANCER.... love it.
Surf on

Victory at sea

Today was wet and wild.
Tough,tough paddle out..... nobody else was in the water. 3 way cross ups, deep pits in the peaks, big bumps on the shoulders,walls, die-outs ,waves about 3-5 seconds apart. Every once in awhile it was like all the "cross-ups" came together into one big bomber and yeehaw !! My total #$*&@ day at work vanished from my mind in about 3 seconds. The concentration was refreshing and VERY necessary. Had some great rides and got my ass kicked too ..... perfect!

Yep.....likin' the Victory at Sea stuff.... makes a man outta ya !

Surf on

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Expected a joke,but got stoke stoke S T O K E

AFTER the last Sunday session on my Beautiful 10'3" Chris Slick Noseider I saw the crack in the deck......lotsa water comin out.....thats goin to the shop for a good 2-3 weeks

TODAY I took my other Slick, (I have 3 heehee), a California Classic, which is a hybrid of a retro/modern 9 foot board, 2+1 ,not alot of rocker, and drove to the spot about 4 pm expecting windy,cold,SMALL chop and slop.

I pulled up I spied the only 2 surfers out there, 2 of my buds. Funny thing is they were way far out there ......

SUITED up and started the paddle out only to see BIG,FAST Walls on the outside and Pat and Dave scratching over them......

MADE it out( tough paddle out) and turned on the first wave.....steep drop, fast, hard, bottom turn and flew out the top in a swan dive over the back.

one was BIG FAST and LOOOOONG...........wooooooooooo eeeeeeeeeee
Stayed out through rain,rainbows, wind, chop,clearing skies, calm winds, glass off, spectacular sunset, and about 8 really great waves and rides. Doing things I have not done before. In tune and rockin'.

I just love 'em

Surf ON

Sunday, March 11, 2007


Today was one of those days that go down as sweet.
My son Jason ( shown above on Big Wednesday 12/21/05 looking over TerraMar)
and I (below with my winter beard, looking over Del Mar)

started at the beach break area and quickly saw the reef was breaking better. So we decided to make the 100 yard paddle over. This was cool as it was super glass and windless.
made it over and about 5-8 of the "regulars" were catching some nice peaky waves.
"Bout 70% of the regulars are pretty good surfers( mostly longboards) and bout 25% are V E R Y G O O D surfers. It can be a little intimidating and if your not "on it" you're not gonna get much.
My son was on our biggest board and he was getting alot. I was on a less familiar shorter board and was hanging south about 10-15 yards and waiting for the right that I new would show, based on the swell. I started getting my share until I was discovered and a little crowd formed around me.
No worries, Jason and I spent 2 hours surfing it up in some really nice conditions.
It's hard to describe how "complete" I feel when my son and I share a great surfing session like that together......it's just sublime and the after glow and stoke is such a gift..

surf on


Monday, March 05, 2007

My best yet

Surfing has been a real mixed bag lately.
Haven't wanted to write either. Let me sum it up.
It's mostly been weekend warrior suff due to either weather or work.
Keeping me dry,or trying to was the weather, but I went out for hour long sunset sessions for 5 days in a row. Semi "Victory at Sea" conditions, and it felt GOOD.
By the time the weekend came around I recall a Saturday of Big, hard to catch waves, but I was "paddle ready". That Saturday was challenging the whole groups of "regulars" including myself. However my ride in wave was epic. Nasty drop,way outside, jacked up, head high,glassy,right, and rode it to the sand. That was worth me working thru the victory at sea week for sure. I felt satisfied.
Next week was kinda the same, maybe 3 mid-week sessions, then the weekend. Again, nice conditions and surprisingly large waves on the outside. Odd that the line up was largely un-populated,probably the booming closeouts, big, fat, fast, walled up booming close-outs. Had to have patience, which I DO.
After a series of drop,rise and get out kinda waves,
the big mack clean-up wave shows.
I remember thinking "I'm too deep, ah screw it" and dropping straight down a very fast, foot or two overhead, swifty. Made the knarly bottom turn right, and straight up to the lip, locked in my track and took off like a freakin' rocket, way high up on the wave. Rode up and down the face but parallel the length of the ride( 75 yards !!)
This is on my 10'3" Slick mind you. Well on that day I finally heard my board sing.
Not only did it "sing" but it belted it out, loud and proud. That sound was amazing, I wont forget it. At the end of this wave I sat spent and made about 3 or 4 arms raised over the head victory yells.

Saturday, March 03, 2007

yeah yeah

You Are 64% California

You're so Californian, you belong in Hollyweird.