Ah.... just what the Dr. Ordered

In @ 645 @ warmies. Now.... this isn't some awe struck newbies acct. The EIGHT WAVE SET that came through during my paddle out was shoulder to
over Head P I P E S ......peeling. It was beautiful but scary.
I GOT THROUGH THE PADDLE OUT WITH DRY HAIR...
AAAA MAAA ZZZZING.
My buddy Dave who started 5 minutes before me wasn't as lucky. I was outside for 10 minutes before he made it out. He got owned.
So
Things were good.... got a couple of drop in's then outs.
Not ideal, but I'm not getting pummeled , as I remembered the beach bombs that came through yesterday at the same time of day.
For a change, I aggressively thought about things as the line up took on a few more people, I saw a Peak to the south of every one where there was some shoulder to the right,
instead of the closeout scene where I was currently ( along with every one else ).
Paddled to it and wham...
Big steep drop then me dancing on a steep long barreling face with my slick Classic. Now the classic has issues. Doesn't like slow fatties, its gotta have some serious push,then speed to lighten up and perform. Today was the perfect day for that board. Many great waves and rides later I was teeth from ear to ear. It really seemed I could do no wrong.
It's like I got ALL the WAVES O THE DAY. It was awesome
and I so needed that !! Why did I need it so badly? Next issue !
F R E A K I N' A W E S O M E.
Thank you God for the skill and grace to do this, on this one day !
surf on...