Got worked , yep, I did

So out into the sunny warmth, and glassy blue for another try...
I head out with my son
and run into Eileen (tri~athelete and ex work surf team member)
which was a pleasant surprise.
Stood up and RODE the first wave.... nice
Stood up and fell on the second wave.... cool
(only was able to stand once at last time out)
Stood up, got closed out and got Bitch Slapped HARD
I knew that was gonna happen and I have wondered how it
might affect me and my "issues".
Well It HURT and I haven't been back for 4 days .....
I figure I'll be ready for more in about 4 more.....

Everyday is better and better even if its worse as a result of things like the above..
make sense ! ?

After 8 months of a whole lotta Bad, I stand up and surf.

Last night under a clear, blue and purple canopy, bright orange sun sinking below the water line, with my son and 2 best friends with me, and watching over me in the line up, I paddled through the glass in only my trunks, caught a wave and stood up.
It was hard.
It hurt.
But not as much as my last 2 attempts. In fact it hurts no more, at all as I write.
My friends Pat and Dave, and my son Jason, were as stoked as I.
There were some A frames and peelers there last night and all got good waves.

Before my surgery( 8 months ago), Pat used to sometimes ask,
as we sat outside in the setting sun
"Bill, what the HELL are you grinning like that for?"
(some of my best sessions were with no waves at all... just the ocean, weather, and friends, you know, the sensual stuff)

Last night, all he said was,"There's that SMILE again !".
At that moment I realized that I could return to what I once loved, that it is actually possible.

Thank you Laurie for understanding, supporting, and loving me.
Thank you Jason for inspiring me, I love you for that son, and more.
Thank you Lori M. and Michelle for your endless support of myself and Laurie.
Thank you Pat and Dave for ALWAYS being there.
Thanks fellow bloggers and surfers for your well wishes and inspirations.
Thank you God and Mother Ocean !
Surf on..............I'm in.

Tried to POP ...but only POOPED

Went out Wed.Pm after work for a trunks and sunset try. Weather and water were beautiful but I could not yet pop to my feet. Still loved being in the OCean but..
Try again next week.....

ANOTHER GIANT BOWL OF
PATIENCE
PLEASE ! !

surf on...
I'm going to be there soon ! ! ! $#%@##@$% ing #$@%

Work IS good for SURFING ? ?

Well blow me down. After 8 months out of the water and work, it seems my 1st week back at work has helped strengthen my core and abdomen a little. After my pool rehab session today I feel the best yet. I was popping up off the pool floor, jumping off the pool floor, and launching off the side of that pool with virtually No incisional discomfort. SLOW and STEADY will WIN this race.
I now believe I will not only be able to paddle out again but,
WILL STAND AND SURF some time in the next 2-4 weeks. I thought for sure I had herniated or torn my abdominal wall around one of my incisions, I now believe otherwise.
I still intend to listen very carefully to my poor old body and let it tell me what to do but in the same light my body is responding to my efforts almost daily SO ........... keep a good thought and soon I should be back in action
surf on.....
I'll be there soon ! !