Despite 60 people spread between the beach and the reef proper... today my experience was incredible.
Didn't stand up once. Too many freakin people for my battered body to compete with.
Did see folks I haven't seen in.... well since the Disaster ( surgery).
Rick ( the drunk monkey ), Glen ( has chunks of guys like me in his stool)
Ted( hair is still perfect and dry), Paul, Paul ( snake guy), Steve,
Pat (in the Hat), Aleta, Perry, Bobby, it was like a welcome home party for me.
Solitary, lone wolf me, saying howdy and getting welcome backs from all these fine surfers.
Pure glass, sunny,clear,warm, bros and the fine wahinis', PERFECT
thank you all....... ALL of ya
surf on ...
3 comments:
Right on, Bill. Sounds like a damn fine day. :)
Very beautiful. Don’t let this memory fade. We all need hopes and dreams to give us something to live for. Without them, we become listless and our hearts grow cold. It’s important to remember, however, that it’s about the journey. If the only thing we can see is the dream we hold onto, we sometimes miss the beauty along our path.
It’s not just your body that needs healing… it’s your soul as well. The next time you paddle out, deeply inhale the damp salty air and feel the gentle caress of the wind. Take the time to see the tapestry of color around you. Listen to the rhythm of the waves and the songs of the birds. Allow the beauty of the ocean to wash over you and fill your soul with peace. Etch all these things on your heart and never let them go.
Just as the sun will rise and the next wave will roll in, you will feel the power of the waves beneath your feet again. It may not be tomorrow, but it will happen.
Surf on, my friend, surf on…
Great day to be in the water.
I'd be happy to send you a QT of the movie if you'll send me your email address.
toddy (at sign) ok-oh dotcom
Lapsed Catholics. . .
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