Terramar

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Kooked out on "The Reef" oh my ! !

I have mental issues, this we ALL know.
The Reef(Igor's) messes wit the brain of I and I. Friday night I went out with my friends
Pat n Dave. I caught a few inbetween wistful glances south to the reef, where it always seems to break better. That place always shakes my confidence. So last night I thought I'm going there on Saturday.
I paddled over this morning and there were only 4-5 others on the peak, all of whom I knew, Pat and Chuck are bud's.
I rode a wave on my knees,
(could NOT stand) and actually laughed it off. That in itself is rare for me, to truly laugh at myself and not feel bad. So that was cool. Did a couple other kook outs and laughed those off as well. YDD would have had a field day with me today.

Did get some nice rides however and felt REALLY good about
"The" reef session.
Gonna go back again tomorrow and do it again,
This morning, in the water at the reef, after I stood on a "nice"drop and rode, Pat shook my hand and said"welcome back".
I know exactly what he meant by that.
Thanks Pat!! It's good to be back !

surf on...

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