I see purple blobs, swirling around far away, so very far away.

It's Sunday 5:43 AM, raining and there is no surf to be spotted on any local cam, chart or anything that I can read about, at least none I can travel to.
I have the feeling that the reef will have a very weak knee high peak ,and I'm gonna go check it.

After last session
( a good one considering the last two weeks of swell ( or lack thereof )),
I am left craving surf.
I see purple blobs, swirling around far away, so very far away.
Bye

ANNOTATION: 8:00 am There were no waves and I went to swim laps at the gym, while pretending I was paddling into big surf

surf on...

It's been awhile..

Sunday.
Upon arriving@ 7AM, it was gray,cool with a breeze, minimal surf.
It was not what my friend Dave would describe to me as "inviting".
Lot's of regulars were suiting up, with big smiles and
story telling, coffee , and laughter. The typical weekend scene, but more crowded due to Memorial day.
I was hoping that my son and I would surf and (at least temporarily )forget some not so hot news concerning college we got just before going out that morning.
That, and Sundays dawn patrol never happened.
This news has dragged down our family's spirits collectively.
We parked, looked at the scene, then each other,
then left.
Bummer.
.......
Got a call from Dave at about 12 noon as he was headed up the coast.
He did say that the water now looked "inviting".
Jason and I headed out towards the ocean again.
This time it was warm, sunny, very little breeze, and actually a swell breaking at the beach and the Reef.
Trunks would be the attire, regardless of the temp.
As it turned out, it was perfect water temp.
I scored on this one.
I did lead us to the reef wave
I watched the reefers get wave after wave shoulder high south combos, said screw it and paddled over to and then directly into a pack of VERY GOOD SURFERS, as usual.
I was feeling good and confident after some great rides at the usual beach spot, and I wanted the big reef wave too, for us, regardless of the "vibe".
Got into a great peak and dropped, along with another.
I was in the perfect spot and he wasn't, though he tried to call me off. He then appeared to try to come around me but I cut towards him, he bailed and I continued on.
THERE ! ! I did it.
From that point on I could go for what I wanted,
for what was m i n e.
Got many more out there that day. Made my son proud. Dave had some good ones.
The water was clear enough to see the reef grass waving 10 feet under us, as we got long, fun shoulders after big drops. For me it was damn near perfection
I did a good thing. Hell, Laurie was even out for a walk to watch us for a change and she actually saw me on some waves of size.
We all walked back together, proud, tall, and stoked.
I was SUPER STOKED.
It's been awhile.

Anything better ????

IN the water @ 6 AM.
Super glass and warm water.
Tide moving up so maybe a push.
Shorty on.
Got a couple. Maybe 10?
Very quiet, mellow, and stomach-chest high peaks with some shoulder to em.
A little South, so the reefers were happy.
I chose to stay solo and it worked great !
I am really noticing physical improvements often now, and my surfing improves with that...
Out @ 7:15AM and directly to the gym
Went and swam laps, then right after a nice jacuzzi and shower.
Today was the first day I have been able to stretch like that in ......well... since the thing.
Home @ 8AM. Kiss my love "good morning"

Anything better????
Not really !
surf on..

Waist to~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Knees nice, long lefts, rights, and nose rides Please

This was most unexpected this morning, as it was inconsistent and fairly crowded.

I was to meet Dave, early. He parked way down the line and I took the numero uno spot, which was open.
Dave never paddled out.
I Paddled out into a group of 20 , although none of them my closest friends. I looked around, then quickly proceeded South at the dead end of that group, and WHAM... one came right to me. It's always kinda weird to have that happen in a lineup but..... I secretly love exactly that. Nice long glassy left past the whole line up. I called off a friend, "Squat", with a "Howdy neighbor"
I wouldn't be alone again this morning.This was fine considering everything. Paddled back out to compliments from many
( that's a rarity in this group ). Took a rest and deliberately passed on a couple. Saw an outsider and went for it, grabbed a right , a long one. Sweet. Did the long paddle back, got some looks and rested.
The next left was a shoulder peak with a pit and I positioned perfectly, moved forward on the big board and went flying, my best position on a wave in a long time. Called off a hopper and he said "where did you come from?", I replied "way the hell back there bro!"and continued on down the wave.
Many comments again about the speed I had, and some " I could have had that'(s)"
My final was a right and alone, Squat had gone left. This was a chest high shoulder, and I was positioned in the top 3/4 of the wave the whole ride. Just kinda dancing the nose of the board up past the lip and then down, repeat,repeat,repeat, floater, then rode it in to 1 foot of water. Stepped off and went home.
Perfection comes very rarely for me, and is always when I least expect it !

Got Some.... 2 WEEKDAYS in a row !! !!!!!!!! This is a good thing for me.

WED pm THURS pm
Took a shorter board to work each day, so no excuses. Got into some peaky steeper drops.
Very warm water, trunks totally and ZERO chill. glass, sweetness.
I felt normal for the first time in 1.2 years.
Came to a great realization.... something I have always known.
I want to, maybe, truly need to, surf a lot !

More later.....

surf on

Your brain calls but the body stalls.

Weird Waves this Sunday.
Probably, best described as inconsistent.
I would say the same about myself.
I got some. My best wave, and a nice one by others standards was cut too short while dodging insiders.
I enjoyed the time in the water. Things did play with my brain though, detracting from the experience.
Once again I am plagued by various pains related to events of over a year ago. These alter the way the body works for sure, especially in a "high performance" situation. Your brain calls but the body stalls.
No doubt I am in the position( once again) of having to drop 20 lbs. That 20lbs pushes out on the abdominal
scarring and incision sites,prior drain hole areas., etc,etc.
I worry and struggle to not plateau at
at a performance level that is less than before surgery(s). I HOPE that I will keep getting better at surfing, as well as at life.
There is a lot of work to do, I guess there always has been, and always will be..god willing.

surf on