Sundays South Swell (part four 7.26.09 )

Same sorta cloud hanging over me again this morning.
This time my friend Dave would meet me at my house and we would ride in one vehicle ..
This is different.
Arrived at 7 and trunked it on out.
Waist high and inconsistent at the beach/houses spot.
5 Palms was p a c k e d with the fine Sunday staff, the reef was still a zoo.
It was so packed we stayed in the same spot and just caught few.
30 minuets later the Reef was starting up and getting some.
Another 15 minuets and the reef and 5 palms were getting head high + peaks and lines.
Tippy toed over there to talk with Aleta, sneaky guy.
Soon, the shift of swell had become apparent with the tide change, and things did get pretty good sized, though inconsistent.
I got what I needed ++. Really one of the nicest waves in several years (when you consider the surgical bullshit and recovery time) a long steep left. Up, down, all around,
toes close to the nose, finished with some good surfer girls giving this old bird some shakas, etc,etc.
That was nice.
Caught a few more very good sized, long rides, in epic conditions as far as water and weather go.


My good friend Dave got a lot of it too.
That did me good to see
as he---------------------------------------------------->
has been dry for a week or so.
Took a beautiful STEEP(go to drop, get pitched out and over pearl, wonder when my head is gonna go through my board , oh missed the board, good, when am I gonna hit the bottom cuz I am being driven down so far) one, but came out good.
I needed that too.
Met a surfer ( one I have watched and admired a few times before ) named Kenny.
He has been reading this blog. This is the first time I have met someone who met me FIRST through this "diary" I write. I was a bit taken back by this, as I never really expect to meet
anyone who reads this that way. I write some personal stuff in here and it was embarrassing at first, until we talked a while and I realized that we all experience the same stuff. the same pure passion, the STOKE.
All in all, I truly got just what I needed Sunday, on a lot of levels.....

surf on....

South Swell ( part three 07/25/09-7am )

I am Still awake on Friday night at 12am, that is extremely WEIRD
I get up at 630am, dress, hit it and I am .... sorta depressed??
I am missing my son and surfing with him.....
In the water @ 7am GLASS - low tide 3-5 footers, very inconsistent.
40 people in the water at houses
Look South to the reef
for that big South Wall o white.........4-6 footers, some thumping
60 people spread through the reef area.
Shoulda brought the big GER board.
Missed a few, others grabbed those and RODE em.... got thanked for missing one.
Got one and rode it in........ almost ZERO stoke, no reef, kinda bummed.

maybe tomorrow, or tonight,
this is very odd for me....

surf on...

South Swell ( part two 07/24/09 )

Friday,a tough day at work,a tough week at work.
I get home at 530pm, strip, hit it and I am in the water @ 550pm. .......4-6 footers, inconsistent.
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white.......................6-9 footers thumping'
45 min.later
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white ......................8-10 foot outsides with some serious "clean-up" and "clear-out" action going on.
Again I caught 3, 2 way outside, shoulder/head high fatties, that were nice long rides, and 1 ticket home.
The reef continued to build and pound.
gonna try to snag a reef wave tomorrow
to be continued.....

South Swell ( part one 07/23/09 )

3pm my son Jason is out with his bud's while I work, he reports 2 -3 footers nuthin special.
I get home at 530pm, strip, hit it and I am in the water @ 550pm. .......2 -3 footers nuthin special.
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white.......................2 -3 footers nuthin special.
45 min.later
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white and THERE IT IS.
Caught 3, way outside, shoulder/head high fatties, that were nice long rides, through all the bowling pins lined up on the inside.
The reef continued to build and pound.
Caught one in and was satisfied
to be continued.....

surf on

Tropical air, clear cool water, ahhhhhhhhhh

Mellow were the waves and crowd, with clear, refreshing water.
Waist to shoulder peaks. Reef grass swaying with the swell and visible when riding.
Got some both on Saturday and Sunday.
@ 1pm Sunday, I drove right to the reef at Igor's.
It was nice not to do dawn patrol as ALWAYS.
I dawn patrol for 2 reasons.
Morning glass.
Get home to spend time with Laurie.
Sunday was Glass all day and I had a good time at a different break. Enjoyed the mid day sun in the cool water, and checking out different surfers.

an important observation:
My son Jason has moved south to be very close to campus and his gal.
For Laurie, myself, and the regular surfers at Terramar,
he was conspicuously missing this weekend.
Another page is turning.
surf on

It's what we like

and.... it's headed to a Southern window in your neighborhood.

S W E L L~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ S T O K E

No Swell... oh well

Had a nice run of Souths and fun. The water is so warm and clear. Glassy knee high stuff to paddle for ,stand up, relax, move around a bit, and ride.

I love the feel of moving thru the clear blue-green, warm, glassy water, and being in the bright sun with a blue sky.

It just ALWAYS feels GOOD

surf on...

Like Children

Went out @ 5 pm not expecting much.
Headed straight to the reef after saying hi to Ted and Pat at houses.
They weren't getting any and of course, the reef was getting some.
GLASS, CLEAR,WARM WATER,
TRUNKS, zero wind.. beautiful ! ! !
Paddled right into the thick of things and caught 5 or 6 waist to chest highs right off the bat.
Then caught a shoulder peak, fought off two others and cruised that face to the beach and paddled right back.
Saw my friend Dave all alone midway inside getting a lot of 25 yard rides. A lot of em.
I left the pack and joined him for 2 more hours of wave after wave after wave.
We were super stoked and laughing like children for hours! ! !
I think I stood and rode 20 waves and so did Dave.
It was UN REAL !
It was PERFECTION !
Here is where I was just a short while back
http://surfing-terra-mar.blogspot.com/2008/09/my-1st-paddle-out-in-7-months-ahhhhh.html
Today I stood 20-30 times and paddled like a pro..... thanks all ! !
THANKS

surf on....

Reef (er) Madness

The South Swell ( as I predicted ) will be a dominate feature this summer season.
This means that for me and my friends the spot to be will be the reef.
This means that there will be serious competition for waves, at times.

This means I will rise to this challenge, and maintain my cool.

Big, outside, crystal clear,
warm, green-blue, glassy waves, reef (ers).

Got only a few rides yesterday during a high tide but was stoked.
Jason had a difficult time " tough day at the reef" yesterday.
He hasn't had a lot of surf time this season, and I was feelin' for him.
Today he called me at work to say he was headed back out ( get back on the horse) to the reef.
He reported many long rides fitting the conditions described above. I like it ! ! !
Didn't get out tonight, work prevented that.
Will get out tomorrow and paddle into the thick of things and get my fair share.
Enjoy the swell ! !
surf on...