I am Still awake on Friday night at 12am, that is extremely WEIRD
I get up at 630am, dress, hit it and I am .... sorta depressed??
I am missing my son and surfing with him.....
In the water @ 7am GLASS - low tide 3-5 footers, very inconsistent.
40 people in the water at houses
Look South to the reef
for that big South Wall o white.........4-6 footers, some thumping
60 people spread through the reef area.
Shoulda brought the big GER board.
Missed a few, others grabbed those and RODE em.... got thanked for missing one.
Got one and rode it in........ almost ZERO stoke, no reef, kinda bummed.
maybe tomorrow, or tonight,
this is very odd for me....
surf on...
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