Same sorta cloud hanging over me again this morning.
This time my friend Dave would meet me at my house and we would ride in one vehicle ..
This is different.
Arrived at 7 and trunked it on out.
Waist high and inconsistent at the beach/houses spot.
5 Palms was p a c k e d with the fine Sunday staff, the reef was still a zoo.
It was so packed we stayed in the same spot and just caught few.
30 minuets later the Reef was starting up and getting some.
Another 15 minuets and the reef and 5 palms were getting head high + peaks and lines.
Tippy toed over there to talk with Aleta, sneaky guy.
Soon, the shift of swell had become apparent with the tide change, and things did get pretty good sized, though inconsistent.
I got what I needed ++. Really one of the nicest waves in several years (when you consider the surgical bullshit and recovery time) a long steep left. Up, down, all around,
toes close to the nose, finished with some good surfer girls giving this old bird some shakas, etc,etc.
That was nice.
Caught a few more very good sized, long rides, in epic conditions as far as water and weather go.
My good friend Dave got a lot of it too.
That did me good to see
as he---------------------------------------------------->
has been dry for a week or so.
Took a beautiful STEEP(go to drop, get pitched out and over pearl, wonder when my head is gonna go through my board , oh missed the board, good, when am I gonna hit the bottom cuz I am being driven down so far) one, but came out good.
I needed that too.
Met a surfer ( one I have watched and admired a few times before ) named Kenny.
He has been reading this blog. This is the first time I have met someone who met me FIRST through this "diary" I write. I was a bit taken back by this, as I never really expect to meet
anyone who reads this that way. I write some personal stuff in here and it was embarrassing at first, until we talked a while and I realized that we all experience the same stuff. the same pure passion, the STOKE.
All in all, I truly got just what I needed Sunday, on a lot of levels.....
surf on....
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