Saturday
In @ 7am , trunks, glassy, minimal waveage. Got about 3 waves and then paddled to the reef.
The reef peak is funny. Depending on the swell direction you paddle into it a different way.
Saturday was the First Time I have been the on the south of the north breaking peak, and as I sling shot myself from the south to the north, to my amazement, 3-4 people backed out of the wave for me.
First time that's happened there, for me!
This was a great thing as far as my surfing at the reef goes.
So it has led me to believe that I have been approaching this wave the wrong way, and probably pissing off a few each time. WAA WAA WAAAAAAAAAAAA
Sunday
In @ 630am, trunks, pure glass, minimal waveage but, better shape on some rare outside set waves !
Took me awhile to grab a few but got a nice left into about 4 inches of water, was gonna leave but decided to paddle out and south to the reef to get a nice exercise. Plus the reef was showing an occasional set or 2 every 10 minuets or so. Paddled right up and into a mellow bunch of long boarders, short boarders, yakers, SUPers. I do try to paddle right into the peak line up and make my face at least familiar there. Today, a big boy and a kayaker hit. It was almost bad but the yaker grabbed the long board before it could damage.
I got a couple rides, soft mush burgers then paddled hard back to the beach houses spot where I started.
Got a good work out and enjoyed the silky warmth of the ocean. No complaints.
Went to Del Mar horse races afterwards on Sat. with my sweetie
I'm fixing to go again today .
life is good ! ! Very, very good !
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