Surfing Terramar
Terramar, stoke, and a journey back to good.
Terramar
Sunday, August 09, 2009
Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09
IN at 6:45 am. Trunks. Cool, tropical, feel to the air.
Again not many people.
Perfect glass.
Fast got into a few lefts, and was feeling it right away. The swell was up from yesterday.
My board is performing very well with the smaller fin.
Really got into some nice fast ones, outside in, then would play on a few insides.
Got a little crowded and I got out. It was perfect
surf on...
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About Me
Bill
I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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Finer still ! ! !
I usually don't whine....
Tuesday swell so, so.........but
Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!
Sunday night....... not too shabby
Sunday AM was better
S-a-tur-day ...... night !
Mornin' there Guillermo
Guillermo may be visiting on Saturday
Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09
Saturday 08.08.09
Was surfing last night any good?
Reef was OK
Weekend ( post South Swell ) in Review 8.1.09
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